We had been planning a trip to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve in Botswana for a number of months. This gave us more than enough time to prepare ‘Ploddy’ for a 4 week trip, of which 8 days had to be completely self-sufficient - plus an additional 2 days in case of an unforeseen emergency.
It was going to be our first venture into this rather desolate area of Botswana. The campsites needed to be pre-booked - an even more onerous mission than in the past as Botswana National Parks has 'privatised' numerous sites, while others, for the time being anyway, have been retained by themselves. But communicating with this office, whether by phone or email, can be a tedious, frustrating and prolonged exercise.
It was going to be our first venture into this rather desolate area of Botswana. The campsites needed to be pre-booked - an even more onerous mission than in the past as Botswana National Parks has 'privatised' numerous sites, while others, for the time being anyway, have been retained by themselves. But communicating with this office, whether by phone or email, can be a tedious, frustrating and prolonged exercise.
The plan was to leave mid April (2010) and our route should include a number of game and nature reserves along the way. We wanted to make sure that we experienced fairly wide and diverse habitats and biospheres.
We have a guideline of travelling a maximum of 500 to 600kms per day. Using Track4Africa and Mapsource software we worked out routes on our laptop, based on time and distance, per day. These were downloaded onto our GarminMap 276C GPS for use while en route. Every evening the daily tracks, and any new waypoints created, would be downloaded from the GPS onto a small Asus netbook. Once back at home this information will be submitted to Tracks4Africa for their ongoing digital map project.
We have a guideline of travelling a maximum of 500 to 600kms per day. Using Track4Africa and Mapsource software we worked out routes on our laptop, based on time and distance, per day. These were downloaded onto our GarminMap 276C GPS for use while en route. Every evening the daily tracks, and any new waypoints created, would be downloaded from the GPS onto a small Asus netbook. Once back at home this information will be submitted to Tracks4Africa for their ongoing digital map project.
Despite taking us a bit out of the way, we could not miss the opportunity of stopping over in Johannesburg to spend a few days with Peter and Janine and our two gorgeous grandchildren, Kent and Morgan.
Day 1
It was a fairly temperate morning of 18°C, but misty, when we drove out of our garage at 08h00. From Cape Town we were heading north on the N1 for 468kms to our first night's stop, a favourite of ours, the Karoo National Park. Not only is this a lovely wildlife park where both the endangered black rhino and riverine rabbit have been successfully resettled, but also a mecca for paleontologists who have uncovered fossils, some of which are estimated at almost three-hundred million years old.
We hadn’t booked, but the availability of a camp site at this time of the year wasn’t a problem……and at R150 for the site, what a pleasure.
a lovely camp site (water plus power point) at the Karoo National Park near Beaufort West
Day 2
Ploddy's small fuel tank was filled with diesel in Beaufort West and then a fairly leisurely drive on the N1 North (there was a massive detour of about 70-odd kms - off the N1 at Colesburg and, via Philopolis, back on at Trompsburg) took us to our overnight stop about 35kms south of Bloemfontein, - to Tom’s Place on the Tierpoort Dam where camping and chalets are available. We had done 523kms for the day.
The camp site appeared rather desolate and lacked decent-sized trees so we decided to opt for a chalet – at R390 for the night we didn’t think it would break the bank - but did feel a bit guilty for choosing ‘luxury’ so early in our trip!! But it happened to be the right decision - it started raining during the night. The chalet was clean and comfortable.
Kathy studying her road map book outside the en suit chalet at Tom's Place......
......and we had a wonderful view over Tierpoort Dam.
Once the gesellige fire had turned into hot coals the braai was ready for the meat and wors. The Free State stars were still visible and, with a glass of red wine in hand, we felt full and content and ready to retire fairly early. It was going to be great seeing the family tomorrow.
Day 3
We woke up early to the sound of rain outside and were really pleased that we had not decided to camp.
This was going to be a fairly short day up the N1, even at the (slow) speeds we travel at :-)
We were approaching Kroonstad, the centre of a rich agricultural district in the Free State, and 2 hours out of Johannesburg, when we decided to get off the N1 and approach the city from the west, via the numerous gold-mining towns that are dotted along the western gold reef.
We turned off onto the R59 North and soon travelled alongside the Vredefort Dome Conservancy which is a depression created by the world's largest meteorite hit 2 billion years ago. We then entered the town of Parys, crossed the Vaal River, got onto the R500, skirted the farming town of Fochville, and turned east onto the N12 towards Johannesburg. It was along this route that we came across the well-known gold mine names and associated dumps - but the topography was rather dull.
As we travelled north, the temperature had started rising. By the time we pulled up outside the kids' house we saw 30°C on the gauge.
We had a wonderful few days with Peter and Janine. Kent has turned into the brightest little boy and Morgan is just so lovable and seems quite content to amuse herself for ages.
It was sad to say aufwiedersehen again, but, unlike Simon and Lesley, who live in the UK, Peter and his family are not that far away so we can always make a quick plan to visit.
Kent concentrating on his writing
Morgan learning her colours
Day 6
A wet April morning saw us say our farewells and wend our way north to our next stop, Marakele National Park - 'Place of Sanctuary' in Tswana, and home to the world's largest Cape Vulture colony (we didn't see any) - and the Big 5. We had heard and read a lot about this malaria-free game park situated in the Waterberg biosphere of the Limpopo Province, but had never visited it before.
After connecting up with the R511 we soon skirted Hartebeespoort Dam lying in a valley to the south of the Magaliesberg mountain range. Its a real pity we never managed to connect up with our friends Roger and Carol in Kosmos - they thought they were going to be abroad at the time but in fact their flight had been delayed due to the volcanic ash that had spread across the UK and Europe created by the eruption of the Icelandic volcano Eyjafjallajökull. Never mind, another time.
We passed through the town of Brits, crossed the Crocodile river a couple of times, travelled along the shores of Rooikoppies Dam (this stretch of road was quite badly potholed) and, ever northwards, through Thabazimbi - 'mountain of iron' in the Northern Sotho lingo - with its iron ore mines. 20Kms further on we arrived at the gates of Marakele NP. The distance travelled for the day was only 236kms. Not having pre-booked we were rather apprehensive regarding availability of a camp site at this popular park - but we were in luck - R290 for a lovely shady site for two nights.
Marakele National Park - Bontle Camp
We set up camp, opened the RTT, and after strolling around the camping area to stretch our legs a bit and identify some of the many birds that were flittering around, had the evening fire going before sunset. While Kathy was having a shower in the well-kept ablution block the wind suddenly sprang up. She was walking back to the campsite when the heavens opened up. We grabbed our large shower curtain and tried to tie the ends of it to the roof-rack to create a shelter - but it was impossible - the wind ripped it out of our hands before we could try to tie a knot. There was nothing left to do but stand under the minuscule overhang of the RTT, a beer in hand for me, a glass of wine for Kathy, and see out the storm (mental note for when back home - sew eyelets to the shower curtain - attach eyelets to the roof-rack - use quick-action carabiner to attach curtain, and voila......).
Luckily the storm only lasted for about an hour. Once it was over we threw some more wood on the still glowing coals and before long were sitting down to another lovely evening meal.
Day 7
We had to make a decision - do we take a chance and stay at the campsite in the hope it doesn't rain tonight
- nooo, don't think so - the sky still looked threatening.
The available accommodation was in one of the luxury en suite tents at their Tlopi Tented Camp - Tlopi, derived from the word Motlopi, the Tswana name for the Shepherd's Tree commonly found here. It cost R775 (ouch) for the night - and then it didn't rain. Never mind - its a super location on the banks of the Appiesrivierpoort Dam, and the accommodation is extremely comfortable - but beware of the vervet monkeys who raid the open-air kitchen.
On the way there we came across a young rock python sunning itself in the road, and later, plodding along as is our custom, we happened upon a rather cross ellie who obviously didn't enjoy our company. We were on an uphill section of the track when he decided to charge. He had more momentum going than we did in Ploddy so he was narrowing the gap between us quite rapidly. Fortunately the diesel's revs eventually started picking up and we were able to keep him equidistant. 'It was probably only a mock charge' ........we said in hope.......but it certainly got our hearts thumping!
We were allocated the 'Dabchick' tent - absolutely super - although Jacana and Sunbird appeared to have the better views.On the way there we came across a young rock python sunning itself in the road, and later, plodding along as is our custom, we happened upon a rather cross ellie who obviously didn't enjoy our company. We were on an uphill section of the track when he decided to charge. He had more momentum going than we did in Ploddy so he was narrowing the gap between us quite rapidly. Fortunately the diesel's revs eventually started picking up and we were able to keep him equidistant. 'It was probably only a mock charge' ........we said in hope.......but it certainly got our hearts thumping!
The sitting/kitchen area......
......and the view across the dam
The birding in Marakele NP was wonderful and varied. We sighted one new lifer - the Three-Streaked Tchagra. Besides elephants, there are both rhino species, lion (although we didn't see any), also kudu, tsessebe, giraffe and many other species of antelope.
The scenery in this park is absolutely superb. We will definitely return to this wilderness area at some stage in the future.
Day 8
The planned route for today was to take us across the border into Botswana. We tracked back to Thabazimbi from where we headed north on the R510. We filled up with diesel in Lephalale - 'The Barrier' - (previously known as Ellisras) situated on the banks of the Mokolo river and a well-known coal-mining region. Continuing north, we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn before eventually arriving at the border post of Stockpoort (SA), crossed the Limpopo River, which was still flowing quite strongly due to the heavy summer rainfall in the catchment area, to Parr's Halt, where we completed the Botswana border formalities -cost P120 (R125). The whole process in both instances was a breeze due to the friendly and efficient officials - this border crossing will certainly be remembered for future use.
We soon turned north-east at the village of Makwate and, on a good gravel road, skirted the dusty little communities of Machaneng and Sherwood Range and eventually headed east, driving parallel to the Limpopo river, towards the wonderful wilderness area called the Tuli Block. We passed through the Limpopo Lipadi Game Reserve and, a short distance further on, arrived at our destination, the Limpopo River Lodge. The distance for the day was 456kms.
The skies still looked threatening so we again took the route of least discomfort and booked into a lovely en suite rondavel, with el fresco kitchen, and beautiful views over the river - P580 (R655) for the night. Wow, what a setting - situated amongst huge indigenous trees that seem to reach for the skies on both sides of the river ...... and birds everywhere, scooting across the water, flying through the riverine canopy - Kathy was in her element.
We added another new lifer - Heuglin's Robin - but, other than seeing various types of buck, and many ellie plops (no ellies though) in the Mopane bushveld, game was pretty scarce away from the river. As always, one needed to be on guard for the ever-present mischievous monkeys. We thought a couple of days here would be very relaxing....and it was.
Kathy grinning like a cheshire cat.........
........and this is why.......africa is bliss
Day 10
Leaving this lovely setting, we headed off in a NE direction, into the Northern Tuli Game Reserve. Here we turned NW, through the vibrant village of Bobonong, well-known for the 'Botswana Pink', a semi-precious stone found in the region. Not long after leaving town we came across our first Veterinary Control stop where the authorities checked whether we had any red meat with us. These control 'fences' are created to prevent Foot and Mouth disease being transferred from a contaminated area into a disease-free area. One can move meat from south to north and west to east but not vice versa. We knew from our Tracks4Africa maps that we were going to be passing through this control point so were prepared - no red meat in the car.
By midday we had arrived in the town of Palapye. Here we had planned to stock up with food and drinks for the next 10 or so days to cover our requirements while in the CKGR. The SPAR supermarket was a big disappointment in terms of quality of both meat and veggies. The liquor store on the other hand had what we wanted :-) We also filled both diesel tanks to the brim (280 litres) as we were unsure of the availability of fuel further north. Diesel was roughly R1 cheaper when compared to South African fuel.
We left town on the A14 taking us NW to our next overnight stop at Khama Rhino Sanctuary. Along the way we passed through the village of Serowe, a trade and commerce centre and the birthplace of Botswana's first President, Seretse Khama. Here we came across a wonderful new SPAR which stocked all the goodies (of good quality) we needed over the next week or more.
After having covered 360kms for the day we arrived at Khama Rhino and were fortunate to be allocated one of their last available camp sites (again we hadn't pre-booked) at a cost of P240 (R271). This is rather more expensive than most campsites that we have frequented in the past, but it was spotless, a good size, and the sites were well spaced providing quite a lot of privacy. Unfortunately the ablution block was not of the same standard, particularly bearing in mind the price one paid for the night.
a Mokongwa tree has central place in the camp site and provides both character and shade
In the late afternoon we went for a drive to the bird-hide. There was not much activity but on the way back we came across one of the rhino that this community-based wildlife reserve attempts to protect and save from extinction. Coming around a blind corner this fully-grown hulk was grazing alongside the road - we're not quite sure who got the bigger fright but we didn't hang around to ask......
Day 11
This again was going to be a fairly short day. Although we were now well into Botswana the morning temperatures were still in the low teens - and it was raining again. We carried on in a NW direction on the A14, passed through our 2nd Vet Control point - no search was undertaken as we were travelling south to north - and passed through the outskirts of the village of Letlhakane. Turning onto the B300 we skirted Orapa to the south., the site of one of the largest diamond mines in the world. The town is surrounded by fences and one needs a permit to enter.
Arriving at the village of Mopipi we filled up with diesel for the last time before entering the game reserve. We chatted to a tour leader who had come out of the Reserve to fill fuel containers for her and her client's vehicles. They were going to be heading south through the Reserve the next day, and further on into Khutse Game Reserve, a long stretch before they could refuel.
No need for fuel containers for us. One of our best investments was the installation of a long-range tank which, together with the main tank, gives us a range of up to 2 000kms, depending upon terrain.
Soon thereafter we passed through the village of Rakops (no fuel here) and half a kilometer further on turned west, off the tar road and onto a muddy track that would take us to the famous Central Kalahari Game Reserve.
here we encountered a lot of standing water thanks to the recent rainfalls
By now it was lunch time so we stopped for a bite to eat. It was a good 2 hours before we arrived at the park's Matswere Gate, the official entrance to the CKGR in the north. Here we presented our confirmation of payment for the campsites of Kori, Deception Pan and Piper Pan, all of which had been pre-paid through Botswana National Parks. It was here that we needed to pay the additional P600 (R678) in cash for the 2 nights we had booked at the privatised Piper Pan campsite through Bigfoot Tours. In total the 7 nights in the CKGR cost us just short of R3 300 - an average of R470 per night for a site with a long-drop (with toilet seat), a bucket shower where one had to provide one's own water and most often also one's own bucket as their shower roses didn't work. So all in all not cheap - I guess one pays a premium to be able to have a true wilderness experience!!
We also purchased firewood for P20 (R23) - about 6 x 1 metre-long pieces which went onto the roof-rack - we hoped this would last for a few days as we assumed that any wood lying around would be wet.
Our first overnight stop was at Kori Campsite No 2, on the edge of Deception Pan - the name 'Deception' comes from the dry surface which sometimes appears convincingly full of water until one gets up close.
Gemsbok, Springbok and Blue Wildebeest could be seen grazing along the edge of the pan. Black-Backed Jackal were lying in the grass, probably waiting for the evening shenanigans to start.
It was another easy day on the road - 395kms with much of it under a cloudy sky and temperate weather conditions - 24°C.
plains game grazing at the edge of Deception Pan
The skies became quite threatening towards late afternoon with the clouds heavy with water. We started the fire well before sunset in the hope of finishing our supper fairly early, just in case the heavens opened up later. The menu consisted of yummy lamb shanks that had been pre-cooked so it wouldn't take too long to get ready. The potjie had just come off the fire when the heavens opened. Again, with no awning to provide cover, all we could do was dish up, pour our drinks, and eat standing under the overhang of the RTT. It wasn't the most comfortable evening meal we've ever had - and the rain never let up. After our 2nd, or was it 3rd, glass of wine, we eventually decided that there was not much point in getting any colder or wetter. During a brief respite we loaded our unwashed dishes into the back of the truck and made a beeline for the ladder and into the RTT before it started pouring again. It continued to rain throughout the night, and once again the RTT kept us dry.
The morning revealed a very waterlogged camp. Fortunately we had parked on a slight rise at the edge of the site.......but the lake was rising.
Day 12
Our next night was booked at Deception Pan, Campsite No. 6. We packed up the wet gear and the soggy tent and went for a game drive, travelling north, along Deception Valley. Later in the morning the rain subsided and the plains game started to appear and become more plentiful. We eventually turned away from the pan and found the track taking us to our new campsite, which became drier as it gently climbed away from the pan to slightly higher ground. Most of this vast reserve lies at an elevation between 900m to
1 000m above sea level. In fact, other than a few koppies dotted around here and there, Botswana is relatively flat, ranging from a low of about 800m to a little over 1 200m above sea level.
the dry track taking us to our next camp site
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We were going to be spending 3 nights here and were really hoping that the weather would improve.
As our site came into view we were totally enthralled with the position and surroundings. It was large, situated under a canopy of mature trees and well away from other campsites, making it very secluded and private.
Deception Pan camp site no. 6 - stunning........
all to ourselves - and any animal or bird that came to visit - the sites are unfenced
We made the most of the better weather - the 1st task was to erect our rain canopy, set out our table and chairs, and relax with a drink and a bit of lunch. We had the feeling that the next few days were going to be another 'Africa is Bliss' experience - and it sure was. We were fortunate in that, although there was a lot of rain about, we only had drizzle a couple of times over the period of our stay.
The inclement weather made birding a bit of a challenge but we did manage to spot 2 new lifers during the 7 days in the park - a Greater Painted Snipe and the Double-banded Courser.
our quaint ablution facilities.......long-drop on left - shower on right
but the rain was never far away......
our drives in the morning and afternoon were wet and soggy......
Despite this we still went looking for the elusive kalahari cats - but to no avail. The plains game were not really in abundance - many standing in the shelter of the old camelthorn trees. The ones we did see looked plump, healthy and happy - they probably enjoyed the new nutritious grass that was prevalent everywhere.
An unusual sighting was a puff adder swimming along in a flooded track. By creating a 'wave' with quick forward and reverse movements of the truck, we eventually managed to get the snake to move off the track.
The last evening at this campsite was absolutely delightful - the end-of-day twittering of the birds, the call of a black-backed jackal in the distance, and the response from its mate - the full moon peering through the branches - an elusive owl calling from the tree-tops - yep, we'll definitely be back here some day.Day 15
The most northerly section of our journey had now been completed, so today, for the first time, our route would start heading in a southerly direction - with Piper Pan campsite our destination - along 111kms of quite possibly very water-logged track. Needless to say we were rather apprehensive of the unknown and what was awaiting us. Fortunately the day dawned with hardly a cloud in sight with the bright blue sky overhead making a very pleasant change.
The first part of the journey took us across Deception Pan which, in parts, was still quite gooey and muddy, with the so-called black cotton soil causing problems from time to time - ones tyres took on another dimension.......
the treadless tyre look, while crossing Deception Pan
At times, even at speeds of only 5 to 10kms/hour, the truck would start sliding sideways and no amount of opposite lock would bring him back. It was quite eerie but eventually, when it happened again and again, we just burst out laughing.......here we go again......whooopy.
Later in the morning we stopped to chat with a rather muddy-looking tour guide in a Land Rover, travelling north. He warned us about a terribly wet and muddy 200 metre section of track that we would come across south of Piper Pan which had 'captured' his vehicle - he had dug and winched for 3 hours before finally managing to free the vehicle. He suggested we use the new 'detour' he had made by driving through the virgin bush.
After some more slipping and sliding we eventually arrived at Piper Pan during mid afternoon. It was not a relaxing day's drive. Travelling alone (no one to pull us out of the poo if we landed in it) we needed to be alert for any possible mud-traps along the way. We only came across a group of 3 other vehicles during the 6 and a bit hours on the road. They appeared to be foreigners of the younger variety driving their hired 4x4's much too fast for the conditions. We had moved off the track and stopped to let them pass, whereas they, with hardly a wave through their closed, mud-splattered windows, disappeared into the distance - quite clearly clueless of how to behave when driving in a wilderness area. 4 x 4 rental companies should really provide some basic bush education to these people
We stopped at Campsite No. 1 situated on the edge of Piper Pan. It looked like the area had been under water fairly recently. This site had been recommended by some people as the preferred one of the two at this pan. At the time of booking, only No.2 was available, so when we arrived there we were pleasantly surprised. In our opinion it is perfectly situated - the slightly elevated position on a dune gives one a lovely view over the surrounding countryside. Yes.....oh yes..... another couple of spectacular wilderness days ahead of us - for all we knew the nearest Homo sapiens could have been a million miles away :-)
piper pan camp site no. 2 - another 'Africa is Bliss' moment
Day 16
We woke up to another gloriously sunny day with ker-bek-ker-bek-ker-bek of a flock of helmeted guineafowl breaking the early morning silence. While having our coffee and dunking our rusks we heard the chilling sound of lions roaring in the near distance. We quickly got ourselves organised, jumped in the car, and went out looking in the direction of the pan. We hadn't been on the road for long and there he was.......
our first cat sighting on this trip - and a wonderful specimen he was too.
We followed him for a number of kilometres - his mission that morning, quite clearly, was to mark his territory - a squirt here and there was all it took to accomplish this. It wasn't long before we heard the sound of the other lions roaring not too far away. The male's ears pricked up and, without further ado, trotted off in search of the pride, quickly disappearing in the long grass.
Not far away a watchful herd of grazing Gemsbok appeared not to be too concerned with the proceedings
We continued with our morning game drive. Progress was slow as we took in the expanse and solitude of the area, stopping to identify a bird here and there, or finding another one of those wonderful photographic opportunities. We made our way up to the northern part of the pan before turning off the main track in order to circumnavigate the depression along its western border. Many of the muddy puddles had started to show signs of drying, although, as we found to our horror, there were still some treacherous traps around. As innocuous as the track looked, the slimy, clinging mud was sometimes deeper and boggier than the surface suggested, and became an embuggerance for the unwary.
This one required all 3 of Ploddy's diff locks to be activated before we managed to extricate ourselves.....
That evening, while watching the sun sink lower in the western sky, and with the moon rising simultaneously in the east, a glass of chilled white wine in hand, we pondered over the past 2 days. We came to the conclusion that although this was a magic spot we probably would not make a point of travelling south from Deception Valley again. We did feel that Deception Pan was certainly worth another visit, but in the dry season.
While sitting around the camp-fire later that evening we were suddenly aware of a shape standing under a nearby camelthorn tree. It turned out to be a brown hyena standing dead still watching us from a distance -and then, one moment it was there and the next.....gone.....slipping off into the darkness - quite eerie.
another African sunset - the photographer's delight.......
Day 17
The dawn of another beautiful morning (18°C) saw us packing up and continuing in a southerly direction to Xade Camp, a distance of 83kms and the last and most southerly camp on our trip in the reserve.
It was again going to be a beautifully sunny and dry day and we were looking forward to a leisurely drive through the undulating bushveld.We kept in mind the warning that a quagmire awaited us 16kms down the track. When we eventually arrived at the spot it was quite evident that the detour was the option to take - the prospect of possibly spending a couple of hours digging ourselves out of the bog did not appeal at all, besides, we don't have a winch on our vehicle. OK, so we engaged low range, 2nd gear, and although there was a bit of slipping and sliding, had no problem in getting through to the other side.
The further south we travelled the drier it became.
a number of pans were completely overgrown with grass......
We arrived at Xade reception around lunch time and booked in for the night, but changed our pre-booked campsite to one that looked more 'friendly' and comfortable.
our last gemuetliche camp site.....sundowners in the CKGR......
And this site is quite close to the ablution block - yes, for the first time since entering the park we have formal ablutions with proper hot-water showers and flushing loos.
However, we soon found out that although the building, with solar panels, looked fairly new from the outside, the inside had sadly been neglected. It did not appear to have been maintained or cleaned for ages - taps missing, cracked mirrors, lights not working, and the lack of screens on windows resulted in the ever-present yellow-billed hornbills flying in and messing all over the place - in some places literally heaps of it.
It is a great pity that the Botswana authorities and park staff appear to have absolutely no pride in keeping their tourist facilities in good shape. There seems to be no political will to use some of the money they collect from tourists for the upkeep of the facilities. One mustn't forget that this campsite cost P350 (R396) for 1 night - but not much effort is put into the maintenance of the facilities.
It is an even greater tragedy when one reads that most, if not all, of these ablution blocks in the Botswana National Parks are built with donor money received from abroad!!
the ablution block at Xade Camp - nice from far but far from nice......
Why do we still frequent these areas - and why do we want to return time after time? Because there are not many wilderness areas left in Southern Africa where one can experience such solitude and tranquility - where one can view fauna and flora without seeing another soul or motor vehicle for hours, sometimes days, on end.
Africa is not for sissies - you need to be aware of what is happening around you, but at the same time relax and enjoy this special experience - you will leave with fantastic memories and many a tale to tell, despite some inconveniences and embuggerances along the way.
Day 18
Another sunny morning saw us break camp for the last time in the CKGR. We left the park in a westerly direction along a soft sand track, which eventually turned into a good gravel road. Along the way we passed a large Bushman settlement (the longest-term inhabitants of Southern Africa) and after about 170kms arrived in the town of Ghanzi, the centre of Botswana's cattle farming community. Here we restocked with food, drinks, and filled up the diesel tanks.
We had travelled 762kms since taking on fuel in Mopipi 7 days ago. Despite the heavy going encountered in the park which necessitated the use of low-range gears from time to time, and despite the heavily laden vehicle due to the need to be self-sufficient for so many days, Ploddy still averaged 14.7 litres per 100kms for this stage of the trip- not bad for the old boy :-)
After leaving Ghanzi we turned SE and hit the tarred A2, the notorious Trans-Kalahari Highway - notorious due to the many motor vehicle accidents caused by the proliferation of farm animals wandering freely along it. Driving in daylight is not that much of a problem because visibility along the verges is excellent.
Our next night's stop was 247kms down the road, at the Kalahari Rest Lodge.
It was time to spoil ourselves. After 8 days of camping we felt we needed a break from the tent. Their chalets were fully booked so we were allocated one of their en-suite rooms. The accommodation was clean but small - the 2 single beds took up most of the room - and at P425 (R481.00) for the night we were rather disappointed.
Nearby were 4 well-kept and comfortable-looking campsites, each with its own ablution facility. We made a mental note that they could certainly be an option in the future.
the en-suite room at the Kalahari Rest Lodge
We had sundowners at the bar and then went to the restaurant for what turned out to be a most enjoyable and delicious meal - Kathy had a fillet which was done exactly to her liking, and my rump steak was absolutely superb. After the meal we retired to the bar for a few more drinks, while watching the Blue Bulls being beaten in a Super 14 game :-)
We fell asleep to the sound of an owl calling nearby and some far-off rumbling of thunder in the distant skies.
Day 19
We woke to an overcast and coolish day with the temperature at 14°C The day's travel was again going to be fairly relaxed at 353kms. It included a border crossing back into South Africa and on to our next overnight stop, Molopo Game Reserve.
After the coffee and rusks routine :-) we hit the Highway again. 25kms down the road we came to the small village of Kang where we decided to fill our fuel tanks for the last time in Botswana - remember, fuel is cheaper in Bots than SA. Fortunately we had kept enough Pula to fill up as here plastic cards were not accepted.
It was another 93kms down the Highway before we turned onto a good gravel road taking us in a southerly direction towards the border. We passed through the largish town of Khakhea where we turned SW onto the tarred A20. This led us through the sleepy little villages of Kokotsha and Werda situated on the dry Molopo River. In this part of the world the river happens to be the border between Botswana and South Africa.
We followed the Molopo in a westerly direction to the little village of Makopong. Soon we turned off the A20 towards the river and the Makopong Border Post. Once again we found both the Botswana and South African officials friendly and efficient. We were the only vehicle crossing at the time which contributed to another easy and painless event.
We continued on a fairly good gravel road, still going west along the Molopo River, but now on the South African side. It was early afternoon when we finally entered the Reserve and found our way to reception. At this stage we were undecided as to whether we were going to stay 1 or 2 nights, but there were no other bookings so deciding at a later stage wasn't going to be an issue. We paid R150 for one night and made our way along the 2kms or so to the camp site. The camping area is slightly elevated so we chose a site on the edge giving us a wonderful view over the kalahari grasslands and thornveld bush. The temperature was a pleasant 27°C.
we set up camp, prepared a light meal.......
and while having a nice cool shower in a spotless and well-presented ablution block, things were happening behind our back.......
......storm clouds gathering in the distance.
Although the clouds seemed to be coming closer they initially looked as if they would pass by in the north. It was only much later that we realized it had been nothing but wishful thinking. That night we were hit, not once, not twice, but 3 times, by the mother of all electrical and wind storms. Our poor little roof-top tent got the brunt of it. Although common sense told us that we should evacuate the RTT and get into the truck, we knew that without our weight in the tent it would be a goner. We were both hanging on to the aluminium struts supporting the tent structure with all our might. Looking back it must have been quite a comical scene - we knew we shouldn't be holding onto metal during an electrical storm so we were trying to anticipate the lightning bolts and.........yea - @!#$% dumb is not the word.......
The winds were fearsome, the lightning frightening, puddles of water accumulated in the corners of the tent and the bottom of the mattress was getting quite wet. But after all that, lying on top of the mattress we were dry, and the MyWay tent survived thanks to its brilliant design and some sturdy engineering.
It was a long, long night and neither of us got much sleep. We vowed then and there never to go camping again.
It was days later that we looked at each other and said that perhaps we had made a rash call. At the time it seemed to make sense but the mind is forgiving, or perhaps just forgetful :-)
Day 20
A new day dawned and although there were still clouds around, the storm had disappeared over the horizon.
But we had had enough. The mutual feeling was that we needed to get out of this area and into formal accommodation before the next storm arrived.
So we packed our bags and our sodden tent and made our way further west, still travelling along the Molopo River, as far as the R380 junction close to McCarthy's Rest border post. Here we turned south on a good gravel road and cruised through the green kalahari bushveld towards Kuruman. The gravel eventually became a tar road somewhere before the manganese ore mining town of Hotazel. In the distance we could see the huge mine dumps that deface this part of the kalahari desert.
Kuruman is famous for 'The Eye', a geological feature bringing water from deep underground to the surface - in the Kalahari Desert!! We stopped to top up with provisions and filled the small tank with diesel.
While assured of cellphone reception in town we booked our accommodation for the night. We had decided to overnight at the popular Mokala Game Reserve, 80kms south of Kimberley.
We carried on southwards on the R31 through the small dorpies of Danielskuil and Koopmansfontein, past the old Vaalbos National Park which had been de-proclaimed due to a successful land claim by the local community, and through the rather ugly town of Barkley West. While travelling along the outskirts of Kimberley we encountered another monumental electrical storm.
We connected with the N12 South which led us to our penultimate stopover, Mokala NP - Camel Thorn in Setswana. After one of our longer days on the road - 583kms - we arrived at the Park on a cool afternoon - 20°C - and were allocated a cottage right on the edge of Mosu Lodge at a pensioner's discounted rate of R456.
the accommodation at Mokala NP is superb......
and views to die for - note the storm clouds building up again.......
Day 20
We spent a glorious morning driving the park's tracks to get an idea of what this reserve has to offer - leaving with a distinct feeling that we would be back one day.
By mid-morning we were back on the N12 South to our final overnight stop, the Karoo National Park,
where we closed the loop of our trip. The distance for the day 464kms.
We again spoilt ourselves and booked into a cottage - R652 for the night, which included a sumptuous breakfast.
We arrived early afternoon but, before getting too distracted, opened the RTT, took out the mattress, and allowed both to dry in the lovely karoo sunshine. We then raided the booze box for the last time, made ourselves comfortable, and watched the patterns of light and shadows being thrown across the Nuweveld Mountains by the setting sun. Happiness is......our trip couldn't have ended any better.
the stunning late afternoon views of the Nuweveld mountains at the Karoo NP
Day 21
We arrived home after a relaxing 468kms jaunt down the N1 and entered Cape Town to a rather cool
18°C - exactly the same temperature as when we left 3 weeks ago.
Summary
This holiday, without fear of contradiction, can be regarded as one of the wettest ones we have ever experienced in our travels around Southern Africa. We thoroughly enjoyed the uncharted (for us) territories that we travelled through, the absolutely stunning campsites that demand a return visit in the future, the lovely bird sightings and new lifers that keeps our total bird count ticking over nicely, and of course we really enjoyed the precious few days we spent with Peter and Janine and our gorgeous grandchildren. It really is necessary to see them fairly regularly as we wouldn't want to miss out on their different stages of development.
Some Stats
Number of days on the road: 22
Total distance travelled: 5 888kms
Fuel consumption: 12.9 litres/100kms
Fuel cost per kilometre: R1.00
Cost of fuel: R5 868
Cost of accommodation: R8 351Total cost of Trip: R14 219
Cost per person per day: R339
Exchange rate P1.00 = R1.13
A small scale version of our track .......
Our next trip is already in the planning stages - yippeee.
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